Rental Cars, Driving on the "Wrong" Side and Panning for Gold

After two days in Melbourne, I took my life in my hands and hired a car.  I've never driven on the "wrong" side of the road before and I was more than a little nervous.  

My wheels

Rent the smallest car possible - check.  Make sure it's an automatic because trying to learn to drive on a different side of the road and having to deal with trying to shift with my left hand is a recipe for disaster - check.  Figure out the insurance thing - if the CDW is required in Australia, get the rental agent to indicate as much on the rental agreement - well, I tried but ran into some communication difficulties.  

Head out on the highway, heading for adventure,  whatever comes my way. . . 

Adjusting to driving on the left-hand side of the road wasn't actually too bad - easier to do when you're driving on a highway with rumble strips to warn you when you are too far to the left.  However, harder to do when driving in the midst of a high wind storm!

I took it easy the first day and only drove for an hour or so.  My destination was Ballarat, a former gold mining town to the north-west of Melbourne and home of the Eureka Rebellion.

When I was planning this trip, Ballarat wasn't part of the original itinerary.  However, after reading some brochures and my Lonely Planet guidebook, I decided it was worth a detour.  One of the perks of solo travel is being able to do what you want and to change your plans on a whim!

The main draw for me was Sovereign Hill - a re-creation of an 1860s gold mining township.  Lonely Planet describes it as a "living history museum" and it certainly is that.  I was really impressed with this recreation.  The layout, the attention to detail and the sheer number of staff dressed in period dress going about their 1860s lives is amazing.  I've been to historical villages in Canada (Doon Heritage Crossroads comes to mind) and Wales.  I also went to another historica village here in Australia a week or so later.  They all pale in comparison to this one.  

I loved wandering into the different shops along the main street: buying an apple custard turnover in the baker, a pair of warm (although not-so-1860s-authentic) gloves (when the guidebook says that the town is "notoriously cold in winter" - believe them, even if it had been warm in Melbourne!) in the millner's shop, viewing a demonstration in the blacksmith shop and checking out the wares in the tack shop (if it hadn't been only the 3rd day of an 8 week trip, I might have purchased a few souvenirs for the horse-lovers in my family!).

One of the highlights of the village is the river where you can pan for gold - sometimes even successfully!  I had to laugh at the sign that said "No panning beyond this point.  River not seeded" - takes a little away from the authenticity when you know you are panning for seeded gold and makes it more disappointing when you don't find any!

Panning for gold.

The village doesn't downplay the injustices and inequalities of a gold mining town - the tent village set on the outskirts of the village for the Chinese miners contrasts sharply with the near-opulence of the main street and some of the other buildings.

Despite the cold and the rain, it was a great way to spend an afternoon.  Unfortunately, I didn't have time to go on a underground gold mine tour.

The village closed at 5 so I went back to my accommodations to get "rucked up" for the evening.  Travel tip:  flannel PJs under your clothes can make a decent alternative to long underwear when in a pinch!

As part of a package deal, I was able to eat dinner in one of the restaurants on the main street of the recreation village.  One of the disadvantages of solo travel is eating by yourself in a restaurant.  It's usually not too bad (and most times a good experience) but I found this particular evening more difficult.  I was at a solo table near the entrance to the restaurant.  The other tables were beyond mine, filled with families and groups of friends.  I felt very conspicuous and out of place.

Sovereign Hill puts on an amazing sound and light show at night, telling the story of the Eureka Rebellion.  The "Blood on the Southern Cross" show is unlike anything I'd seen before.  You start in an auditorium at the entrance to the village where there is a brief audio-video introduction to the 1854 rebellion.  After the video, the audience walks out into the village, stopping at different points, such as the river and the asseyers tent, as the spectacle continues.  You then get on a tram that takes you to a covered theatre with a view on a section of the village only seen if you attend the show.  Here, the battle of the Eureka Rebellion is brought to life through narration and sound, light and special effects.  After the battle, the trams take you back to the main street where you enter the town's theatre and one of the participants of the rebellion stands on stage and recounts the aftermath of the battle.  It was worth the detour just for the sound and light show!

I was able to get accommodations right on site.  About $50 got me a private bunk room (enough beds for 6 people but I didn't have to share).  In some ways, though, you do get what you pay for - the room wasn't heated and it was VERY cold at night!  Thankfully, there were 5 empty beds so I just borrowed a blanket.  Also, the bar-lounge at reception had a warm fireplace and free WiFi and the receptionist very kindly gave me a tea bag, some sugar, and a couple of cookies.